Could we please talk about the hair spray technique a bit?

[Adam Wilder]

Hello

Could we please talk about the hair spray technique a bit? I have been watching some of you on this forum get tremendous results using the hairspray technique. I have also watched Phil and Per Olav do it live and made it look easy.

I have tried it numerous times am not getting the same results. This time I applied a base-coat using Tamiya paints, applied a layer of hairspray and then apply a thin layer of paint over the hairspray after it dries. Then I will use water and a somewhat stiff brush to try and remove the top layer of paint. All I ever do is I keep easting thru both layers of paint down to the plastic. I have tried this three or four times over the past years and just keep resorting to the traditional methods to finish the subjects I am painting.

There are numerous threads throughout these forums with many great SBSs. Could we gat just one thread going like the Lacquer Thinner thread for example where we can all refer to in order to obtain the information we need. I was wondering if we could get some of you to talk about how you do it, the paints, brushes, brand of hairspray and anything else I simply just might be missing. Do not be afraid to post photos in this thread that you have already put on these forums. I have tried numerous types of paints and thinners and am not getting the same results as some of you. Even after I figure it out I may still like the methods I have been using better but I would at least like to have this technique at my disposal.

Sincerely
ANPW

[Per Olav Lund]

Hello Adam

Let me try to explain how I do this tecnique. I post some progress pictures of my Abrams dio I made a while back.

I normally use Vallejo colors as a base, I dont know but I think this is a little more resistent than Tamiya. I use different ground colors depending on how I want the final result to be. Painting on different base colors with a sponge also gives a good effect, sorry I dont have any good pictures of this


As you see I use quite a generois amount of hair spray. I have tryed a couple of brands and I am most satisfyed with the a one called "Catzy Hairspray" (a Norwegian brand??) THis brand feels easier to work with and do not effect the base colors.


After about 4-5 minutes I overspray with the base color of the Abrams, I used Tamiya for this step.


As soon as the Tamiys paint os surface dry, I start to wet very small areaas at the time and work off the sand color with a stiff, short bristeled brush. I think its easier to have controll ewhen I use at small areas at the time.


Per Olav

[dragonforge]

I thought you needed to put a barrier coat of something like a semi gloss down after the base coat and before the hair spray to get the proper effect.

Ive read Phil S (can't spell his last name) but he always applies a semi gloss clear coat before the hair spray. I think the slickness of the semi gloss clear coat allows the paint to be lifted easier and not allow the rub through Adam is experiencing .

[sherminator70]

Hi Adam,

as you know my first contact with the hairspray was with a building from MK35.
My approach to this technique was the same as you and Per Olav did, except for one little difference:

Base paint with Tamiya acrylics (although that shoudn´t matter. Vallejo will work as well)
A layer of Vallejo Model Air flat varnish
A thin layer of Wella hairspray (What brand do you use ?)
Followed by the blue color performed with Vallejo acrylics again.
After 10 minutes of drying time I could wash it away easily. With a little pressure on that short bristled brush soaked in warm soap water.

Cheers
Gunnar
http://www.modellbaufreunde-siegen.de

[Michael Rinaldi]

Hey guys,

Adam, I have heard this about the hair spray technique probably more than any other idea in recent memory. Time and again I hear about guys struggling with it, not just beginners, but experienced guys like yourself who really know what they are doing. I remember Marcus Nicholls telling me it took him 4 times to get the hair spray right on one of his projects (however he had a very different problem, which I'll discuss later). I have also had detailed talks with Phil at Euro and the guy almost wishes he never mentioned it. However, we both agree it is a very powerful tool for these types of worn outer layer finishes and definitely worth exploring to access its full potential. I think it would be great to hear from Chuck Doan, Marc Ruesser and Michael Fichtenmayer on this topic as well because of their experience in paint removal in general. If Rick Turner is still out there, he did some wonderful work with hair spray as well, especially since he layered the effects for even more unique finishes.

Honestly, when I read your steps Adam, nothing you are doing jumps out at me as being incorrect. However, maybe some insights to see what is happening might help to solve the problem. For the record, I am not using a barrier or varnish between the base coat and white wash, but I know guys like FichtenFoo do. I feel that this is really more of a precautionary step and a personal choice, not a mandatory one. If you feel that you might struggle, then by all means it is a good idea to use a varnish in between.

The smoothness of the base coat would indeed alter adhesion of the top layer, but that should not be a factor on cutting thru to the plastic. So adding a gloss coat would seem to provide protection AND a smooth surface for the easier release of the white. However, there are some things to consider with this style as well, which I'll detail later in my outline below.

• BASE COAT
1) Paint type -- The base coat can be anything really. Acrylic, enamel or lacquer--matt or gloss--but each does have its own unique properties. The brand of paint shouldn't matter because I've had similar results with base coats of Tamiya (thinned any way you like--lacquer thinner, Windex, etc.), Vallejo and Lifecolor. What is important is the quality of the finish. Any type of grain or orange peel will affect the end results. The smoother the surface for the white wash to adhere to the larger and more dramatic the paint chips will be. However, it is also more difficult to achieve smaller chips if the surface is too smooth (ie. you'll get a preponderance of large flaky chips on a very smooth surface, which can rapidly get out of hand--this was Marcus' problem I believe). I personally find some tooth from a matt paint surface gives a more realistic result (as it applies to heavily used combat vehicles) and this is what has worked best for me.

2) Primer -- But regardless of any of this, one thing I do almost religiously is add a primer coat before I do anything. Like a condom, this is the most appropriate form of protecting the plastic and the base coat will adhere to a primer coat better than bare plastic no matter what the circumstances or brand of paint. In the 50+ or so paint jobs I've done in the past few years, I have never had a problem with paint lifting from the plastic when I primer, so I don't waver in that area. To prove my point here even more, my recent 1/72 Pzr IV F1 only has a pre-shade of Tamiya NATO Black and sure enough, I cut thru to plastic on some of the edges of the hull. Mr. Surfacer 1200 aerosol is my best friend.

Primer coat


Base coat with Tamiya acrylic


Base coat with Vallejo acrylic




• HAIR SPRAY
1) Type -- If you read everyone's comments from around the world on the type or brand of hair spray being used, there is a broad variety. This has led me to believe that it really doesn't matter on the brand of hair spray. I have used the same can (still on my first) for all of my paint jobs and I really like it for both its ease of use, pleasant smell and fine misting qualities--Tresemme Professional series Ultra Fine Mist, which I bought in the US at Target. This stuff is so good my girlfriend now uses it herself (for what's its intended to do), I had to have her buy her own can because she kept coming and stealing mine. But see, that is the genius part of using hair spray, Because it was designed for use on humans it won't harm the model in any way and completely washes off with water. I have yet to see any adverse reaction to any base coat and only the salt technique is as user friendly in this regards, so trying to make this stuff work for you is worth the trouble in my opinion.

Hair spray application and brand used



2) Quantity -- Here is an aspect that varies greatly between individuals. How much hair spray you apply does make a big difference in the speed in which the water reacts, the size of the chips obtained, and the ease of removal of the white or other top layer. (My feelings Adam, are that you did not apply enough or your hair spray layer was too thin and the results were that it took a long time to get the white off causing you to scrub more and more and eventually you cut thru the base coat. Frustration probably also set in making you scrub harder. My first diagnosis for you would be to add more hair spray). I apply two complete layers from about 10-12" away, letting each dry in between by using a hair dryer on low heat to speed it up. Note the glossy sheen above. However, if you know this about the technique then you can use it to your advantage. You see being able to control the size of each mark is where the power of the hair spray springs to the top, better than the salt technique even. Those of you obsessed about such things, like myself, will know what I am talking about. Hair spray allows you to get the smallest mark possible depending on what tool you are removing the paint with. So what that means is depending on the quantity of hair spray applied, you can achieve different results to your liking. My motto is "you can never have too small of a chip".

Results of more hair spray applied


Results from a little less hair spray for a different result and reason (ie. not a white wash)



• WHITE WASH or TOP LAYER COLOR
1) Paint type -- OK, here I feel it should be an acrylic, but I do believe you can have similar results with enamels if you practice first. Again brand doesn't seem to really matter. For Tamiya users though, I will state that for the white wash step, do not thin Tamiya with Lacquer thinner this time because it will bite thru to the base coat to much. Stick with just water, it makes it easier to remove. I experienced both with my Pzr IV F1, the first layer of white wash was with Tamiya thinned with Lacquer thinner and it was hard to get it going. The second layer I just used water to thin the Tamiya white and found it much easier to remove. [i[(So Adam, getting back to you, and knowing how spray Tamiya acrylics, I'd also suggest thinning with water for the top layer of white).[/i]

Tamiya XF-2 White top layer


Lifecolor brand top layer



2) Opacity -- Another very crucial area of consideration, maybe the most important aspect of how this process works. The entire point of using hair spray is so that you can remove whatever is resting on top of it by dissolving the hair spray layer with water, thus giving you these glorious chips and scratches. Again, nothing can be more simple or user friendly in theory. But unfortunately, that is just not the case. The opacity of the top coat is vital to success, and even more importantly, knowing how thick to apply the paint and what looks you are trying to achieve will make a big difference in the end result. It all relates, and I feel many guys who struggle here are probably spraying blind if you will, (especially beginners), and not realizing this factor plays a part. Obviously, the more opaque a top layer is, the harder it is for the water to get down to the hair spray layer. Remember you are trying to dissolve the hair spray, not the paint itself--the paint comes off when the hair spray comes off.

2a) Opacity/White Wash -- The best method for applying a white wash finish is to leave a fair amount of the base coat visible or visibly bleeding thru. The reason is that you want the water to get thru the white as fast as possible to affect the hair spray and make paint removal random and effective in a natural looking way. Here you are going for more extremes and have less concern for what remains. Done right the laws of the process take over and you have a rather random and natural looking result. So use less white in areas you want more base coat showing.

Again using the Marder as an example, note the less opaque areas of white (around panel lines and the driver's compartment) and the resulting removal after the scrubbing. Compare this photo to the one above with the white top layer applied, and note the more opaque areas of white that remain on the surface. Note the wheels too, less hair spray was used here and see how much smaller the chips are.


2b) Opacity/Non-white wash -- When using the hair spray for general chipping and going for effects that require removing the top layers in a random and controllable fashion, the hair spray is also a perfect tool to use. However, in this case you want even and uniform paint coverage because the top layers of colors are exactly that and not intended to be a deteriorating temporary finish like a white wash is. So how do we cut thru the paint to get to he hair spray? Here I use differnt tools like toothpicks, small awls, needles, hobby knife, anything that can easily cut thru once the paint softens a little from the water. When you apply the water, the paint will not dissolve but it does get softer, so this is how you very gently begin the process. There is a lot less scrubbing with brushes involved and more with making nicks and scratches with sharper tools. But again by varying the opacity slightly, like on the drive sprocket below, you can achieve the required amount of removal you are after.




• REMOVAL
1) Water -- The water is just that. I haven't determined any tangible difference between warm and room temperature water. Warm water probably works faster but I haven't seen any real variances of note. My only comment here is on how to apply it. I take a 1/4" wide flat brush and paint the surface with water once, nothing too much just get the model wet. This kind of softens the entire top layer in preparation for the scrubbing. While that is drying, I then pick a small area to work on like a front fender and then apply another layer of water and let it sit for 20-30 seconds. Then I begin to scrub and scratch, whatever I want the results to be.

Scrubbing using a short bristle brush. The brush doesn't have to be super stiff, just somewhat resilient to provide some resistance as you scrub.



2) Brushes & Tools -- What type of brush you is important, but like those illustrated above anything relatively short and stiff would work fine. Once the hair spray is wet you can pretty much do what you like to it. As the water takes hold and dissolves the hair spray, you will see the removal begin to happen as you scrub, sometimes very quickly, so don't be too aggressive. I take my time and when I begin to see the first marks appear I move in close and really concentrate so I can get the best results. I try to control the quantity of the marks as much as possible, so it doesn't get too out of hand. I also use other small instuments to create small nicks and scratches. Again anything relatively sharp will work fine, just use caution and don't stab the model. Move quickly and randomly to achieve the best results. The more you work an area, usually the worse it gets, especially if the chips are getting too large, so don't linger in one area too long.

Here are some results on different style of marks and chips.




It works wonders on exhaust paint chipping too, especially Pzr IV's!





Well, that is about as much as I know on the subject. I might be forgetting something, so please ask if something doesn't make sense.

Best,

Mike



Images copyright M. Rinaldi © 2009

[Adam Wilder]

Guys, thanks for taking the time with this. Wow!!!!!

Hello Per Olav

From looking at your photos you are obviously applying much more hairspray then I have been. I mean a lot more. And the hairspray does dry fairly smooth? That has been my biggest fear with this method. I do not want to affect the smooth finish. Different brands also make a difference you think?

Great paint about the gloss finishes Dragonforge. I should have also thought og that actually.

Hello Gunner
You appear to be doing this like just like I am and with a flat finish also. the siarspray I use is a brand called Fixpray.
http://www.drolim.com/articulo_detalle. ... showhide=1

Thank you for the posting.

Mike, I was thinking that maybe you might want to consider a compilation type Hairspray article for Model X like we did with the Colour Modulation.

I am not using any varnishes either. I have found that the water or liquor thinner I use like on the KO KV I did will just eat thru everything if I am not careful.

Step 1. I appear to understand step one in your outline I think.

Step 2. I am also adding the primer prior to the paint. I agree that this will help from removing the base coat.

In regards to your comment about opacity of the top coat, again, this was some of the problem I had with my KV. I built up a number of layers on the top surface using Colour Modulation. In the end the outer coat was very difficult to remove. Your comment about dissolving the hairspray and not the paint makes a lot of sense.

Thanks for this posting. I know that you have better things to do on a Saturday. Let me go to the desk and dub around with this while all you have written is still in my mind. I will try to post some photos within a few days for all of your critiques.

Thanks a lot guys. I will get this.

Cheers
ANPW

[marc_reusser]

Guys:Really interesting and helpful thread so far thanks for all the great info. Very much appreciated.

Mike;Hugely informative presentation. Thank You.

As things stand at the moment, I unfortunately don't have much to add or contribute. I seem to have had mixed results with the technique. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. My biggest aggrevations coming from occasionally, like Adam, having scrubbed through to the plastic; and other times (probably from scrubbing to hard) "discoloring" the paint surface/finish below (IE. it gets smoother and darker in the scrubbed areas).

What I need to do for myself (and will likely do before I start final paint on the boats), is to set up an experiment using different paints, finishes, applications etc., and see what comes of it, so that I can find one that is comfortable for me.

One thing I have found, was that the hairspray seemed to lift a bit easier, and the undercoat was more resistant to eating through or discoloring, when I used the solvent based Floquils for the base....even without primer.

I have an experiment that I hope to do in the next couple of days comparing the chippig effects using the air eraser on paint undercoated with hairspray, and the other with Gum Arabic. (I will post the results if they are worthwhile.)

I do have a question for you though...and maybe a bit off topic; but you note that you thin the Tamiyas with water?....you haven't had any problems when doing this such as clotting and not mixing properly?

..and on a sim note, have you used the X-20 thinner with the Tamiyas over the hairspray? ...if so, what was the result?


Marc

[Adam Wilder]

Ok guys I got it.

I added a base-coat of Tamiya thinned with lacquer thinner over a piece of evergreen primed with Tamiya Primer.



Next I applied a good few coats of hairspray. I applied more hairspray this time like recommended.



After I applied a gradient of Tamiya dark grey paint thinned this time with tap-water.



After I removed that outer layer using a brush and toothpics. It acted just like Mike said it would. The areas of the thicker dark grey at the top moved away in more of a chipping motion. The thinner area towered the bottom was much easier to remove resulting in scrapes.



You made my weekend all of you. Thank you very much. Now I am ready to move onto the model.

Again, thank you very much!!!!!

Sincerely
ANPW

[sherminator70]

Hi Adam,

Great to see you got it working for you
to actually see this forum work is so much fun!!
And I´m really surprised that different thicknesses of color are resulting in different looks like the chippings.

Thanks alot for the info
Ya´ll have a nice one
Gunnar

[jgauerke]

A great thread which I think is gonna help out alot of people who want to try this technique. I think it's one of the most innovative in some time. Here's the formula that I used:
Undercoats, basecoats, application of decals, a coat of matte finish.......all using Vallejo Model Air
2 light even coats of hairspray allowing 5 -10 minutes between each coat
2 coats of evenly sprayed white paint, once again Vallejo Model Air......letting paint dry approx. 15 minutes
Dip small brush in warm water and go to town scrubbing......it worked for me.
One thing I did experiment with was using a can of DUST OFF compressed air as I scrubbed along. It added some extra chipping to the white paint.
This is just a quick shot of my Pz4 which still has a long ways to go before finishing, but it'll give you some idea.
John

[Jan Peters]

I thought you needed to put a barrier coat of something like a semi gloss down after the base coat and before the hair spray to get the proper effect.

Ive read Phil S (can't spell his last name) but he always applies a semi gloss clear coat before the hair spray. I think the slickness of the semi gloss clear coat allows the paint to be lifted easier and not allow the rub through Adam is experiencing .

Correct, Phil uses a spraycan of 'purity seal' from games workshop to seal the basecoat. After this has dried he applies the hairspray, and after that the coat of (acryllic) paint which needs to be chipped. The purity seal seals the underlying layer of paint as you remove the top layer. The paint is then removed with warm water and a stiff brush.
This was my result at his workshop in Eindhoven last year


Jan

[Brian M]

Hi Guys

I have not been on much recently and have only just caught up on stuff , maybe I can be of some help on this subject as I have used it a number of times and also helped phil do the workshops on this technique

There are a few essential parts that must be followed for this to work properly

apply your basecoats as normal upto a point where you are ready to put the colour you want to chip off on

apply a barrier coat of gloss or semi gloss laquer ,Do not use an alcohol based laquer such as tamiya clear , Johnsons klear or similar as the hairspray just bonds to it and will not easily move ,you are better using a hard laquer such as Jan suggested like Games workshop purity seal or an automotive laquer

apply two good coats of hairspray (we just used cheap stuff and we never had any problems )

apply an alcohol based acrylic white such as Tamiya

use lukewarm water and a stiff brush and DO NOT leave a long period of time between spraying and removing the white , the longer you leave it the harder it will be to remove

that is basically all there is too it , if you want to add other colours then just add a new coat of clear laquer and repeat the process

the main points are the type of laquer and the time between application of the chipped colour and its removal

hope this is of help

regards
Brian

[darkangel1066gfb]

Hi Guys, this has been a very interesting thread, so to add my piece I thought you might be interested in a book that Phil Stutcinskas has helped write. Its by Games Workshop/Forge World and is titled Imperial Armour, Model Masterclass Volume One. ISBN: 978-1-84154-902-6, GW?Forge World Product Code:60040187008, or take a look at Forge Worlds website www.forgeworld.co.uk

This is a really cool book and covers Forge World Models. Phil's Hairspray technique is covered in detail, and it shows him using GW Purity Seal Varnish spray and GW Citadel Paints. It also covers all the most popular techniques used in weathering tanks etc using MIG pigments.

I highly recommend this book and look forward to Forge World releasing 2nd volume.

[philstutcinskas]

hello guys , thought I better say something . I am constantly told the hairspray thing doesn't work one guy even emailed direct to "thank " me for wrecking his model.
Jan and Bri cleared it up well . The important stage in my opinion is the gloss coat and i would only recomend a tough laquer based loss like Games workshop purity seal I have tried others but this is definately the way to go.
this is a quick summary
1 base coat
2 laquer gloss coat, let dry
3 2 good coats of hairspray letting each coat dry . a hairdryer is a good idea
4 top coat of TAmiya with not too much thinner ,the thinner will attack the hairspray
5 remove the topcoat after about ten minutes with some warm water and a stubby brush. very little pressure is needed because of the gloss barrier underneath . the top coat will just start to lift and break up. in my experience only a damp brush is needed.
6 seal in the finish with a coat of johnsons klear and carry on with the weathering.


phil

[Rick Turner]

Still out here Mike, barely, but we’re hanging in there. Your post is the most complete description on hairspray technique I’ve ever read. Not just step by step but the issues with the technique as well. Hairspray has become a major aspect of my style but then I like more extreme finishes anyway.

With the layer look I don’t use any form of clear coats, I want to be able to cut back through them to various degrees. And as Mike mentioned, Mr. Surfacer really helps bring out small surface dings and scratches with this method. I make sure I have good primer, the surfacer, then base color coats. I let the base dry for a minimum of two weeks before continuing. Sometimes I’ll wear through in just a few small spots, mostly sharp corners, but a touch up with your favorite bare metal color will make it look just right.

The only bit of advice I can offer for those having trouble with this method would be heavy up your coat of hairspray and shorten your drying times. Apply your over spray color as soon as the hairspray appears dry, even a little damp is O.K. Same with the over spray color, as soon as it looks dry, hit it with the water and start scrubbing.

You’ll loose more paint than you like at first but you’ll see results and this will help avoid the frustration aspect. This will also give you a feel for what should happen, then start extending your drying times. This will give you an idea of how much total working time is available and how much paint can be removed during a session.

Rick